Herod the Great: Brilliant builder or paranoid leader? Masada is touted as one of Israel’s most stunning archaeological sites. Built by Herod in the last century B. C. , this nearly impregnable 18-acre palace sat grandly atop the plateau of a mountain overlooking the Dead Sea and surrounding desert.
Serving as a summer palace and potential refuge from his real or imagined enemies, it would later become the site of rebellion by about 1,000 Jewish 1st century zealots, and their subsequent deaths by suicide.
You have two choices to get to the top of Masada, but that narrows to one, if you want to see the sun rise from there. That would entail getting up a couple of hours before dawn, to climb the aptly-named Snake Path for about an hour or so, depending on your stamina and overall physical condition. I would consider myself to be in average shape, and it took me about 75 minutes. For the record, it wasn’t really fun, but entirely worthwhile!
I chose to stay at the youth hostel conveniently located at the base of the mountain, prior to my early morning hike. There’s really nothing else around in the way of lodging, and it was an awesome place. For about $40 USD, you get a comfy single bed in a dorm-style room of five, with an en suite bath and shower room. It was very clean and the price includes a wonderful breakfast of every kind of food you can imagine. Since everyone was there to hike the mountain, the lights went out early and we all got up at about the same time.
This was not your average European youth hostel with lumpy mattresses and smelly showers. The Hosteling International Masada was more like an efficiently run 3-star hotel. The Olympic-size pool was sparkling and we had it to ourselves for most of the day. https://www.hihostels.com/hostels/dead-sea-massada
My friend Leah and I got there early in the day, so we chose adjacent bottom bunks. Although one of our roomies was a middle-aged German woman, the other two were pretty young. We had an electric kettle and WIFI- all the comforts of home!
Morning came quickly, and after a fast shower we headed out to the gate to join the queue of hikers. There was quite a bottleneck here, as we waited to pay our admission of 28 shekels (about $10). I spotted Gerda, our German roommate, who had skipped the shower, and was at the front beckoning us. I am pretty sure we would have missed the sun rise if it weren’t for her intervention.
The can’t-see-your-own-hand-in-front-of-your-face darkness encouraged people to form small groups. Even though there were hikers of all ages, the mood was genial.
This is roughly the halfway mark. We’ve been climbing steadily for 35-40 minutes. The mountain goats are far ahead, and the seriously out of shape still look like ants. Leah and I are holding our own with the middle-of-the-roaders.
Here’s where it gets strange with the lighting. It’s pretty bright, but the sun has not yet risen. I have noticed this often, as I love to photograph the sunrise. When I googled it, I found that dawn begins with the first sight of lightness in the morning, and continues until the sun breaks the horizon. This morning twilight before sunrise, is divided into three categories depending on the amount of sunlight that is present in the sky.
After climbing for well over an hour, we finally reach the top of Masada. Leah looks back on how far we have come, and then walks through the Snake Path Gate!
We are rewarded with this spectacular sight just moments before the sun peeks over the horizon. About 50 people, lined up along the edge of the cliff facing east, burst into spontaneous cheering and clapping!
Mission accomplished! Leah and I feel like we’ve been through the war, but as long as we’re here, we decide to explore a bit. In case you’re wondering, we took the handy cable car down and made it back to the hostel just in time for breakfast.
Around 66AD, decades after Jesus’ death, Jewish zealots engineered a revolt against Rome. The uprising was brutally stamped out and ended in Jerusalem’s destruction in 70 AD. Survivors, about 900 men, women, and children fled to Masada, where they held out until the year 73 AD.
The inevitable day came when 15,000 Roman troops breached its walls. Since it was late in the day, the Romans delayed the final attack until dawn. That night the survivors met and voted for suicide, rather than for capture.
The survivors drew lots and chose 10 men to slay all the rest. Each man lay down on the ground with his wife and children and embraced them. When each executioner completed their task, they drew lots again to see who would kill the other 9, and then, take his own life.
At dawn, the Romans poured through the breached walls. Fires burned quietly everywhere. A ghostly stillness hung over the air. Finally, 2 old women and 3 small children came out of hiding to tell the story.
The contemporary Jewish historian Josephus concludes his report of Masada with these striking words: “When the Romans saw the mass of slain, they were unable to take pleasure in the sight, even though the people were their enemies.” -Jewish Wars FLAVIUS JOSEPHUS
Above is an illustration of the seige tower the Roman soldiers used to breach the exterior wall of Masada. This is a must-see if you travel to Israel. Use the cable car if you’re not into climbing for an extended period. Peace and shalom!
Oh how wonderful. Tragedy and Triumph. I love the pictures and proofs you paint! Thank you. Love and shalom 🙂
What an amazing place and even more amazing story of the people of God. My favorite so far of all the tours you have taken us on! Thank you Marie! I feel like I was there with you. I know our Lord was.
I love your writing style it “brings me along” on these incredible journeys! Truly fascinating! Thanks for sharing all this!!!
This brings back so many memories. The hike was both exhausting, but very beautiful. I loved the cable cars to the very top of the mountain as well
as the dinning restaurants once the tour was completed at the top. Love ❤️
I love the place, have been there several times.